Khador #4: Busy times

My painting is progressing at a steady pace, I finished Butcher 3 and the Pikemen.

I made the flag swappable, the flag is the only difference between a black dragon and a regular unit. (Sure there are different shields but those arn’t required.) This way the only thing I need to do to change between ua’s is swap the flag, and transporting it is way easier.

 

And I took some pictures of all the models that are done with some more daylight:

I was working on the last few solo’s I need to be able to field my Butch 3 list without using proxies, and then this happened:

For those who don’t know much about airbrushes, no that part isn’t supposed to come off.

Pretty sad about it right now, it has a warranty so it’s not going to be a financial issue as I won’t have to buy a new one, however I will be behind on my painting.

Anyhow more news on painting / playing soon.

 

Khador #2: The bases

A while back, when I ordered my desert bases for my Skorne, I also ordered forest bases. It saved me on transport costs and I had possible use for them with Ret or Circle, so why not.

When I decided to start a Khador force, I contemplated my options for bases and I just couldn’t find ice or winter bases I liked. Then I realized I could just add snow to the forest bases and it all made sense.

I applied a coating of GW castellan green with the airbrush on the entire base, then I painted the tree stumps and branches using GW Dryad Bark and P3 Rucksack Tan for the interior. The entire surface was then washed with GW Agrax Earthshade.

I then coated the areas who would end up covered in snow with Vallejo Dead White.

I had a few boxes of the GW snow flock sitting around. I first tried applying it like normal flock (watered down pva glue and add flock on top) but that didn’t turn out right at all.

I then found a vid on youtube showing how to mix pva glue, water and the flock on a palette before applying it to the base. This way you can add a thicker paste to the base, which is far better to work with and instantly shows better results.

I looked at the dried result this morning and I did add another layers of snow using the same method. I hope I can add the jacks to their bases tonight.

Some in progress pics:

 

 

Khador #1: Colortesting

Khador has some really nice looks, but bright red is pretty much what everyone uses and that makes it less desirable. Bright red is the stock scheme so no surprise there really.

In the end I got a golden tip from a friend who suggested white grey.  I primed in black, then did a basecoat of P3 Greatcoat Grey. After that I used GW Administratum grey mixed with P3 Greatcoat Grey. I then switched to pure Administratum grey.

From the Administratum grey I switched immediately to GW Uthuan Grey and applied a few coats until I was up to the color I wanted. I then added an edge highlight of Vallejo Dead White.

The metals are P3 Cold Steel, P3 Pig Iron and GW Hashut Copper. I only added a wash of GW nuln oil after the base coat.

The red on the Khador logos is done using a base coat of Khorne red, highlighted with a few layers of Mephiston Red.

The furnace glow was done using P3 Hearthfire and a GW yellow wash.

I only have some in progress pics of the jacks right now as I want to take the final pictures when they are on their finished bases.

 

Painting Skorne #33: Immortals, Ancestral guardian, Hakaar.

This week I painted up 2 units of immortals (a min and a full unit), an ancestral guardian and Hakaar.

I didn’t want to go for the regular stone or obsidian look, so I went with metal. Gold, silver, platina and bronze didn’t appeal to me so I decided to make them Copper. Normally copper goes hand in hand with all the green rust details, but I wanted them to look taken care of, not rusting and forgotten.

I did apply Nihalak oxide in the cracks of one model to see how it looked, but the normal shade nuln oil provided turned out better (personal opineon / taste)

I airbrushed the copper on and gave it a nuln oil shade, the gems are done with P3 arcane blue.

Painting in style

My painting desk has “evolved” a few times over the last few years, but it always ended up more and more clogged with paint pots and bits etc.

My table isn’t huge but large enough for painting, yet it felt really small at times. I really needed a solution.

A while ago someone posted a link for a Polish company that sells a modular system for hobby desks. The company is called Hobbyzone.

It took me an evening to glue all the components but I’m pretty happy with the result:

 

Painting Skorne #28: The mammoth part 4: Assembly

Since my last post, my little project has come along nicely.

I added a small amount of vegetation on the base, the mammoth has been painted up in parts and I am currently assembling it on the base.

My intent is to assemble the model, then see where touch ups are required on the painting. Afterwards I will add highlights where needed and add some more vegetation.

This is how it looks at the moment:

It will take a few more hours of work but progress is going smoothly, I hope to have this little project finished soon.

 

Painting Skorne #26: The mammoth part 2: finishing the base construction, preparing the mammoth and priming.

As the title suggests, I have been busy on my “lazy” sunday.

First I added rocks to the base in 2 stages, each with smaller rocks, then I added sand. On the top level I also added some sand to create more texture and because that’s where sand tends to be in desert scenes 😀

I had 2 spare bane knight heads so I used them as skulls for the base, tiny details are nice.

After these steps the base needed some time so the glue could dry. In the meanwhile I cleaned and prepared all the parts of the mammoth for priming.

The gang:

After a break of about 2 hours (an entire day of non stop building/ cleaning and painting is just too much), I started my priming. I used Vallejo Surface Primer black.

Not all parts got done last night (the unprimed pieces are shown in the above pictures), so I finished up the priming tonight.

I may start with the first basecoat on the base, but I’m not sure, first I’m taking a break, then I’ll see. Once I get to the next step, I’ll have more pictures to share.

I hope this serves as an inspiration to others, I have seen a number of special huge bases on the internet, however hardly any where the creator shows how it was done.

Painting Skorne #25: The mammoth part 1: constructing the base

The Skorne gargantuan is a mighty beast, and it continues the long standing tradition of base overhang, just like the other skorne beasts. The model is stunning and it’s pose is dynamic so I don’t plan to change it.

Not changing the pose means either placing it on the base that comes with it and having placement issues all the time, OR you have to get creative with the base.

I opted for option number 2, and it’s quite scary, as I have never before made any special bases from scratch. This one also needs to look good, fit into the theme of my army and solve the placement issues…not that easy.

My first step in getting the parts for this base began last year when I ordered some pieces from Scibor.  I love their sculpting work and I saw some pieces I could make work so I went for it and ordered them for future projects.

After looking trough examples of how others placed their huge based models on special bases, I decided a cliff like setting would be my best option. It requires less construction details then my “Bridge crossing a dried up river bed” idea which is above my abilities at this point.

I placed the Scibor parts on the base in an arrangement that I felt would do the trick and then filled up the area behind them with isolation foam.

I placed some pins where the model would be attached to the base.

This is how that looked:

After I was happy with the general volume of the “cliff” it was time to give it all some more texture and fill the gaps where I didn’t want them to be. For this I used a gap filling plaster, something you can find quite easy. I anyone wants to know which one etc, leave a comment and I’ll provide some specifics.

I’m now leaving it to dry for at least a few hours.

I’m happy with some of the texture I was able to shape into the filler, I used my exacto knife so no fancy tools involved. In all honesty I am doing this step by step, not knowing if it will work or fail. It’s a real learning experience and I really hope I get it right from the first try, but accidents happen sometimes so these are exciting times indeed.

I hope to have more pics and info soon.