Painting Skorne #33: Immortals, Ancestral guardian, Hakaar.

This week I painted up 2 units of immortals (a min and a full unit), an ancestral guardian and Hakaar.

I didn’t want to go for the regular stone or obsidian look, so I went with metal. Gold, silver, platina and bronze didn’t appeal to me so I decided to make them Copper. Normally copper goes hand in hand with all the green rust details, but I wanted them to look taken care of, not rusting and forgotten.

I did apply Nihalak oxide in the cracks of one model to see how it looked, but the normal shade nuln oil provided turned out better (personal opineon / taste)

I airbrushed the copper on and gave it a nuln oil shade, the gems are done with P3 arcane blue.

Painting Retribution: Rebooting an army

Back when I started playing warmachine almost 3 years ago my first pick for a faction was Retribution. I didn’t really have a clue yet how the game worked, but the look and feel of the models made them stand out to me, more so than other factions.

People advised me to take another faction that had a battlebox to start with. (yes in the darker times Ret had no battle box) Which is how I landed on Cryx at the time. Needless to say it didn’t take long before I ended up buying Ret models anyhow.

I played the faction for about 1.5 years and then got a bit fed up with them, it’s not the best faction for a newer player and that makes it harder to stick to it.

Now I’m thinking of putting some elves on the table again, but ofc they are all painted horribly, as they are some of my first work with miniatures.

I could sell them and buy new models but that would be rather disastrous money wise in my opineon.

So stripping the paint it is.

Now for metal figs stripping paint isn’t really rocket science, but for plastic resin thats a whole other universe. Which means I had to do a little research to find a method that wouldn’t just melt my figs.

I found several vids on youtube showing the use of break fluid for even finecast models and it seemed to do the job just fine.

Next thing I got myself some brake fluid and turned my kitchen table into a chem lab. (well close enough, but you need to be really carefull as break fluid is highly toxic)(it also helps to know that I have maybe used my kitchen table for eating 2 times in the last 2 years, so no eating and doing chem 101 on the same surface)

I chose Rahn as the test figure, he’s metal and was posed on a resin base. This way I could test the stripping potential on a metal fig first and see what the effects were on a resin piece I didn’t mind losing if things went south.

I recommend using a sealed conatiner for the stripping. As stated before the liquid is toxic and you want to prevent evaporation as much as possible. Also make sure to cover whatever surface you are using. Always wear gloves AND I also use goggles to cover my eyes. A liquid that can cause 3rd degree burns should never have a chance to touch your eyes.

After about 1 hour the fig was taken out and most of the paint came off easy with an old tooth brush. I put the fig in again for about 2 hours, then cleaned it a second time, 99% of the paint was gone.

For cleaning it afterwards (because the brake fluid needs to come off ofc), I first used a paper towl to remove most of the residue and then let the fig rest in a batch of water with losts of detergent (break fluid is oil based).

After that it’s the paper towl treatment again and the fig is good to go.

Still testing with plastic figs now. The resin base had no damage and was cleaned as well.

However when I put in the first resin model and cleaned it, it had a white coat on it still after the cleaning. I’m at this point unsure if this is a build up from interaction with the break fluid or leftover paint.

I’m doing another test with a smaller piece (Griffon shield) to see. I sure hope it’s not some weird interaction, as that would make pp resin more sensitive than fine case…and that would be just horrible.

More on the progress and perhaps painting soon.


Painting Skorne #31: Croack Raiders

I just finished the basing for the Croacks and I must say the tall grass looks awesome.

I used a new type of base I recently made a mould for. It’s actually a 25 mm base but when you glue it to a normal 30 mil base it creates an elevation. I had those bases for a long time and recently I decided I would make a mould for them so I could create more and use them instead of preserving them because I had less than 10 left…

The result:

I’m going to finish the shaman’s base late tonight or tommorow and I’m going to do a post on my little paint removal project as well soon.

Painting Skorne #30: small update

I havn’t been sitting still since I finished my mammoth, however there was not much to report either.

I finished the unit of Ferox that had been sitting on my shelve half painted for a while, and I finished an old metal Titan Sentry. In both cases I didn’t like the way the models looked and went no further than tabletop quality so I didn’t really care to share the results.

Since then I also finished my croack raiders who are now waiting for new bases  and  I’m almost done on the Cyclops shaman, just need to finish the hair and a few details.

Sneak peek:

On the shaman I intended to do Non Metallic metal, and at first it went pretty well, but i just couldn’t get those gloves to turn out ok. In the end I redid all metal in metal paints.

But I was proud I could pull it off on the test piece.


And while waiting for the bases I decided to do some magnetization on 2 beast kits and 2 jack kits.

The materials I ordered for casting bases should come in tommorow, then I can make some bases for the Raiders. I’m expecting to finish the raiders and shaman this week and make some progress in painting the Aradii kits.


Painting in style

My painting desk has “evolved” a few times over the last few years, but it always ended up more and more clogged with paint pots and bits etc.

My table isn’t huge but large enough for painting, yet it felt really small at times. I really needed a solution.

A while ago someone posted a link for a Polish company that sells a modular system for hobby desks. The company is called Hobbyzone.

It took me an evening to glue all the components but I’m pretty happy with the result:


Painting Skorne #28: The mammoth part 4: Assembly

Since my last post, my little project has come along nicely.

I added a small amount of vegetation on the base, the mammoth has been painted up in parts and I am currently assembling it on the base.

My intent is to assemble the model, then see where touch ups are required on the painting. Afterwards I will add highlights where needed and add some more vegetation.

This is how it looks at the moment:

It will take a few more hours of work but progress is going smoothly, I hope to have this little project finished soon.