Painting Retribution: Rebooting an army

Back when I started playing warmachine almost 3 years ago my first pick for a faction was Retribution. I didn’t really have a clue yet how the game worked, but the look and feel of the models made them stand out to me, more so than other factions.

People advised me to take another faction that had a battlebox to start with. (yes in the darker times Ret had no battle box) Which is how I landed on Cryx at the time. Needless to say it didn’t take long before I ended up buying Ret models anyhow.

I played the faction for about 1.5 years and then got a bit fed up with them, it’s not the best faction for a newer player and that makes it harder to stick to it.

Now I’m thinking of putting some elves on the table again, but ofc they are all painted horribly, as they are some of my first work with miniatures.

I could sell them and buy new models but that would be rather disastrous money wise in my opineon.

So stripping the paint it is.

Now for metal figs stripping paint isn’t really rocket science, but for plastic resin thats a whole other universe. Which means I had to do a little research to find a method that wouldn’t just melt my figs.

I found several vids on youtube showing the use of break fluid for even finecast models and it seemed to do the job just fine.

Next thing I got myself some brake fluid and turned my kitchen table into a chem lab. (well close enough, but you need to be really carefull as break fluid is highly toxic)(it also helps to know that I have maybe used my kitchen table for eating 2 times in the last 2 years, so no eating and doing chem 101 on the same surface)

I chose Rahn as the test figure, he’s metal and was posed on a resin base. This way I could test the stripping potential on a metal fig first and see what the effects were on a resin piece I didn’t mind losing if things went south.

I recommend using a sealed conatiner for the stripping. As stated before the liquid is toxic and you want to prevent evaporation as much as possible. Also make sure to cover whatever surface you are using. Always wear gloves AND I also use goggles to cover my eyes. A liquid that can cause 3rd degree burns should never have a chance to touch your eyes.

After about 1 hour the fig was taken out and most of the paint came off easy with an old tooth brush. I put the fig in again for about 2 hours, then cleaned it a second time, 99% of the paint was gone.

For cleaning it afterwards (because the brake fluid needs to come off ofc), I first used a paper towl to remove most of the residue and then let the fig rest in a batch of water with losts of detergent (break fluid is oil based).

After that it’s the paper towl treatment again and the fig is good to go.

Still testing with plastic figs now. The resin base had no damage and was cleaned as well.

However when I put in the first resin model and cleaned it, it had a white coat on it still after the cleaning. I’m at this point unsure if this is a build up from interaction with the break fluid or leftover paint.

I’m doing another test with a smaller piece (Griffon shield) to see. I sure hope it’s not some weird interaction, as that would make pp resin more sensitive than fine case…and that would be just horrible.

More on the progress and perhaps painting soon.